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Tim Gaiser, Master Sommelier

Champagne Service: A Primer

9/21/2012

17 Comments

 
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This post has been a long time coming. The tipping point was a recent Saturday night when I shared dinner with a good friend and fellow Master at a bistro somewhere in the nation’s heartland. We’ll leave it at that. We ordered a bottle of Blanc de Blancs from an excellent small grower producer Champagne house. What followed in terms service can only be described as a not so sublime combination of comedy and tragedy with the primary constituent of the proceedings, i.e., our server, being completely and blissfully unaware. In short, everything that could have been done wrong to open the bottle was done wrong--but with style! 

There’s really only one way to do Champagne service correctly. While there are several minor variations therein, the major components are pretty much unchangeable unless you view opening the bottle as some form of weapons training. Here is a step by step commentary for servers and sommeliers on how to do it right with pertinent and pithy commentary from yours truly.

Initial Thoughts: For Servers Approaching the Table 

Be friendly, engaging, and helpful, but NOT overly familiar. It’s annoying. Odds are the guests at your table really don’t care about you beyond your name and the fact that you will be serving them unobtrusively. Unless they specifically ask, they probably don’t really care about your favorite color, where you went to school, or the last audition you didn’t win. They do want you to tell them about the specials du jour AFTER they’ve had a chance to look at the menu. They don’t want you to interrupt their conversation even if your hair is on fire or the rest of your station happens to be sliding into an abyss right at that moment. But they do want their cocktails, their bottle of wine, their coffee, and the check right now. In between those important events of the meal, everything else can flow along cheerfully.   

In the context of a specific glass or bottle of wine on your list, they want you to be able to tell them what color it is, what it tastes like (without drowning them in a sea of Martian wine verbiage), if it will go with what they’re considering for dinner—and if it’s a good value.  If you know about a great value they might be interested in, by all means tell them. Finally, undersell on the price of the bottle if possible. You’ll build trust with the guest which is not easy to achieve, and they will desire to return to dine with you again and again. That’s a good thing because any restaurant, much less any business, relies on repeat sales to survive. 

Taking the Order
 

Nothing says “I’m really clueless” quite like not getting the order right. Repeat the order once the host has given it to you (that would be the person who ordered the bottle), and a second time when you present the bottle. Otherwise, you risk a creating a misunderstanding at the end of the meal that could cost the restaurant—and ultimately you—lots of money.  

Mise en Place


Here’s a list of the required equipment for Champagne service.

Glassware: Champagne flutes or white wine glasses and they should be clean and polished. Glassware should be polished over a source of steaming water with a clean cotton or cotton blend cloth napkin. Avoid poly napkins as they repel water.

Serviettes: two clean, folded serviettes are required for Champagne service—one for presenting and opening the bottle and the other to be left on top of the bucket at the table. There are lots of ways to fold serviettes but I highly recommended folding the seams inside so they’re out of sight.

Service tray: everything used for service—as in glassware and underliners--comes to the table on a service tray lined with a napkin. The napkin is important. There’s nothing quite as exciting as watching several filled Champagne flutes skid around the top of a metal service tray as the server whisks around the table. I think this was how NASCAR was invented. 

One last note on the napkin used to line the tray: simply unfolding it and draping it over the tray is best. Avoid any fancy origami folds that could also send the glasses skittering across the floor on a tight turn. 

Champagne bucket and stand: fill the bucket with half ice and half water. The bucket is placed to the right of the host within their reach with the second folded serviette draped over it at the end of service.

The bottle: check the temperature of the bottle. Literally feel the neck and body of the bottle when you retrieve it to make sure the bottle has been evenly chilled. If the neck is warmer, odds are the bottle was quick chilled and you’re in for a thrill ride getting the cork out. Be forewarned and be prepared.

Placing the Glassware

Bring glassware to the table on the lined tray. You’ll also need to bring two underliners or B&B plates, one for presenting the cork, and one in case the host wants the bottle kept on the table and not placed in the bucket.

Place the glassware at each cover as consistently as possible. There are multiple ways of placing wine glasses and all are equally acceptable as long the glassware is placed the same way at each cover. Handle the glassware by the stems only. Handle a glass by the bowl and you immediately attach a moron label to your forehead. It’s also far from hygienic.

Carrying a tray: this is the one element of service that cannot be faked. Your adoring public--and your ever curious examiners--will know in mere seconds if you’ve carried a tray enough to be proficient at it. How do we know? Perhaps it’s your expression of restrained terror as you stare at the tray and glasses as if they will betray you at any moment while trying to walk through the dining room. Anyone with enough experience and confidence carrying a tray has their eyes and attention on everything else but the tray. After all, they’re just working. If you’re not quite at that stage, practice--as in a lot of practice--is highly recommended. You’ll be glad you did. We will too.

*A reminder: you will, of course, always be moving around the table in a clockwise direction and serving the guests from the right side. 

Presenting the Bottle

Use the first folded serviette underneath the bottle when presenting to the host. Repeat the vintage and name of the wine for a second time to make sure you have the correct order.

Sensory acuity: when you present the bottle don’t stand too close to the guests at the table. It’s the dining version of a close talker and it can really make guests uncomfortable as in “creepy bus driver.” 
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Opening the Bottle 

Important note: from here on out until you leave the table, safety is the most important thing. The average bottle of sparkling wine or Champagne has over 120 pounds per square inch—as in more air pressure than in your car tires. Everyone has a story about the “big one that got away.” Believe it or not, people are injured and even killed every year from tragedies associated with mishandling a bottle of sparkling wine. Don’t become the next statistic.

Opening techniques: the bottle can be opened either in the air or in the bucket. 

a. Opening in the air: highly recommended. You’ll have maximum control of the bottle and easily be able to go to another option in case something goes wrong as in a stuck or broken cork.

b. Opening in the bucket: unless you’re 5’6” or shorter, I strongly recommend against opening a bottle in the bucket. Really. Otherwise, you’re too tall and have no leverage and even less control over the bottle. You might also imagine for a moment what the view is like to the tables behind you as you bend over working on the bottle, looking like Ichabod Crane adjusting the saddle. Nice. 

The Opening Sequence

Cutting the capsule: most bottles have a pull tab that is guaranteed not to work. Exhibit “A” is Dom Perignon, where the foil seems to be permanently glued to the top of the bottle. Use the blade of your corkscrew to cut the capsule below the cage without turning the bottle. Remove the top of the capsule gently in one piece if possible and place in your pocket--not the bucket.

Loosening the cage: this is important. Next, place the folded serviette over the top of the bottle. Holding the napkin over the top of the bottle firmly, find the ring on the cage and loosen--BUT DO NOT REMOVE--the cage. If you remove the cage before taking the cork out of the bottle, the hand of the almighty should come down out of the clouds and smack you on the back of the head really hard. Removing the cage before the cork is out is extremely dangerous. 

Removing the cork: hold the bottle at a 45° angle pointed AWAY from everyone at the table or anyone else in close proximity. With your hand firmly over the folded serviette and the top of the bottle, twist the bottom of the bottle (not the cork and cage) slowly back and forth to remove the cork. Once you feeling the cork coming out, gently but firmly move it to the side and allow the excess CO2 to escape the bottle in a gentle, almost silent hiss. Above all, try to remove the cork as quietly as possible. It goes without say that this takes a lot of practice. 

Presenting the cork: remove the cork from the cage and place on the underliner closest to the host. The cage then goes in your pocket--and not the bucket.

Wipe it right: wipe the top and lip of the bottle, then pour a one to one-and-half ounce taste for the host. Stand back with the label of the bottle facing the host and wait for them to approve the wine. Once they approve the wine, proceed to pour for the guests (if they don’t approve the bottle see below*).

Pouring for the Table 

Pour for the lady guests first, gentlemen next, and the host last, regardless of gender. If there is a guest of honor at the table, pour for them first after pouring a taste for the host. Remember to pour for the host; it’s easy to pour around the table, jam the bottle in the bucket, and then take off for your next table without filling their glass. Bad form. They’re also probably the ones picking up the check.

The grip: hold the bottle as if it were a bottle of still wine with the label facing out when pouring. Holding the entire bottom of the bottle is acceptable, especially when refilling glasses at a cocktail party or reception, or reaching across a banquet to serve. However, the bowling grip with your thumb in the punt is definitely NOT acceptable. You may think it looks cool, but some bottles have a very shallow punt or no punt at all. Ultimately, it’s not safe and if someone at the table even breathes on the bottle while you’re pouring, you’ll drop it and make a complete spectacle of yourself. You should just clock out at that point and go home. 

Pouring technique: although one slow continuous pour for each glass is the best of all worlds, the easy answer is two pours for each glass. Pour a couple of initial ounces into the glass and allow the mousse to recede. Then pour a second time to a maximum level of one inch below the top of the glass. The general rule is to fill each glass separately at least ½ full before moving on. Making multiple trips around the table to fill the glasses is not even banquet service. It’s ludicrous. Make sure your pours are as even as possible. That, too, takes practice. 

No drips: that’s why you have a serviette and it should be right there after you finish pouring each time to catch any potential drips. 

*A note on serviettes: during service serviettes are in your hand 99% of the time. They are NOT to be carried on your forearm, definitely not to be placed on your shoulder, and, for god’s sake, never to be placed in one of your pockets. Nothing is more distasteful than a server suddenly whipping a hidden serviette out of a pocket to wipe the top of the bottle they’re about to serve you. We at the table have no idea of where the serviette has been or what it’s come into contact with. Ahem.

Concluding Service

Once everyone has been served wine service is concluded by doing the following:

Ask to remove the cork: ask the host if they would like to keep the cork or if you can remove it. If the cork is to be removed, save it to the side in case the host later changes their mind and wants to keep it. That will save you rooting through the garbage at 9:30 on a busy Saturday night.

The bottle: ask the host about the temperature of the wine. Would they like the bottle to be kept chilled in the bucket or kept on the table? If the bucket is the chosen option, gently place the bottle in the bucket with the second clean serviette draped over the bucket. Then remove the second underliner on the table along with the cork. If the host wants the bottle on the table, do so and remove the bucket and stand. 

Final Thoughts: Two Scenarios

* Rejected bottle: if for any reason the host does not like the bottle, the sommelier or server is to apologize and remove glasses and bottle from the table--no questions asked. The server or sommelier then offers a second bottle of the same wine or the list to choose another selection. Above all, remember that in the age of social media, the potential ill will and negative PR from a disagreement or argument over a rejected bottle can render considerable damage to the reputation of a restaurant—and even the server.

Second bottle service: if someone else at the table orders a second bottle of the same wine, that person becomes the “new” host for the second bottle. If the wine in question is a current release sparkling wine, a new tasting glass is brought for the host of the second bottle. The opening procedure is the same as before, with a taste poured for the new host in the second tasting glass and the guests at the tables served wine accordingly in their original glasses. The new host is served last in their original glass as well. The second tasting glass is then removed when the cork is removed. However, if the wine served is a vintage or prestige cuvée Champagne, then new glasses are brought for everyone at the table for each new bottle. If in doubt, the sommelier or server should always offer new glasses to the host with each bottle. 

Á Votre Santé!
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17 Comments
David D. Denton
9/23/2012 04:47:02 am

Great article, Tim!

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Patrick Miner
9/24/2012 01:44:47 pm

Very nice and much appreciated.

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Jennifer link
10/1/2012 09:27:41 am

Well Tim, most excellent article! I have recently (just today) wrote in an article this sentence..."The amount of servers in this country with the knowledge and ability to offer exceptional service are in direct proportion to the amount of customers in this country that have the ability to exhibit high manners, class and tact. There are boundless people in both categories that fall below this line of excellent service/etiquette,yet both of these types of people demand that the other perform and act flawlessly (or close to it)".
With that being said, I hope you were at an excellent restaurant to demand seamless bottle service. If not...? What do you recommend the best way is to reach the servers of our country who are not very good? The conundrum is this: they are NOT the ones reading your article. So, what to do? How to reach them? Did you offer the manager your training services? Would that have been tacky or helpful? Did you tip your server 20% or did you return the insouciant and ignorant behavior?
There is no server school. That's a shame. There are only servers that take initiative and servers who don't. Managers who know enough to properly train and have high, measurable and growing expectations and managers who don't. What a pickle! A big, garden fresh pickle!
Anyway, I do like the article. If you can put your two cents in to any of my ponderings, I would be happy to hear your ideas.
Thanks for putting your time into writing for the masses!

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Tim Gaiser
10/2/2012 03:58:09 am

TG: Hi Jennifer, thanks for reading the post and also for your thoughtful comments. Much appreciated. I’ve separated out the questions in your post so as to answer the questions separately.

There are boundless people in both categories that fall below this line of excellent service/etiquette,yet both of these types of people demand that the other perform and act flawlessly (or close to it)".

TG: Lots of truth to your statement and I also think that it the context of good service we really can’t get overly concerned about the kind of guests we could potentially wait on. Our job as servers and sommeliers is to provide good service and take care of the guest as best we can and that-for good or otherwise—has little or nothing to do with what kind of guest walks through the door of our restaurant. In that sense there is no such thing as “fairness” as in how guests behave—and that’s life.

What do you recommend the best way is to reach the servers of our country who are not very good? The conundrum is this: they are NOT the ones reading your article. So, what to do? How to reach them? Did you offer the manager your training services? Would that have been tacky or helpful?

TG: It’s really challenging to correct any service errors on the spot during actual service directly with the server or even the manager without alienating either or both. Unless the problem is truly egregious, I’ve found that any constructive criticism should be directed to the management after the fact and in a positive manner. Otherwise, your comments will probably be ignored.

Did you tip your server 20% or did you return the insouciant and ignorant behavior?

TG: We did tip 20% and simply because our waitress did provide good service to us other than the opening the Champagne.

There is no server school. That's a shame. There are only servers that take initiative and servers who don't. Managers who know enough to properly train and have high, measurable and growing expectations and managers who don't. What a pickle! A big, garden fresh pickle!

TG: All true but regardless the onus of training the staff is always on management—and it’s a never ending job given the turnover in restaurants.








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Sam
2/22/2013 12:35:34 pm

Tim,

I have to say that articles and insight like this remind me regularly why I chose not to pursue the Court of Master Sommeliers "educational" track. I humbly acknowledge the incredible amount of work and volume of knowledge that MSs are responsible for, but the attitude and approach that so often accompany the title are disappointing, to say the least. There are thousands of good restaurants around the world, staffed with earnest, hardworking and wine-loving servers and managers without a fancy post-nominal. Your assumption that we all are concerned with how MS examiners expect to be served sparkling wine is incorrect. The assertion that all of our guests will be flabbergasted and offended if their server is not in possession of two serviettes for sparkling wine service is absurd. "Nothing is more distasteful than a server suddenly whipping a hidden serviette out of a pocket to wipe the top of the bottle they’re about to serve you"? In 20+ years in restaurants and wine, I have experienced many more distasteful things.

This response is not meant to attack every MS, or everyone seeking the title. Here in Chicago we are blessed with many people in both categories who are professional and incredibly knowledgeable, and who also don't take themselves or their careers in wine so seriously as to automatically insult anyone whose service doesn't meet Court exam standards. They generally don't call a server who happens to touch the bowl of their glass a moron.

One of the sad facts in our field is that many people never experience wine in all of its glory solely because they can't stomach dealing with sommeliers who look down their noses at the less educated. I continue to hold out hope that institutions like the Court will some day place more of an emphasis on bringing hospitality, warmth and a welcoming spirit to wine service and education and stop making themselves feel better by making others feel worse.

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Tim Gaiser
2/22/2013 01:14:38 pm

Sam, thanks for your comments and for also reading my post on Champagne service. I wrote it in September of last year which feels like eons ago. Please seem my comments below.

I have to say that articles and insight like this remind me regularly why I chose not to pursue the Court of Master Sommeliers "educational" track. I humbly acknowledge the incredible amount of work and volume of knowledge that MSs are responsible for, but the attitude and approach that so often accompany the title are disappointing, to say the least. There are thousands of good restaurants around the world, staffed with earnest, hardworking and wine-loving servers and managers without a fancy post-nominal.

“I completely understand your not pursuing any training in our program and respect your decision for doing not so. I would also be the first to agree that there are untold thousands of good servers and managers out there—that goes without saying.”

Your assumption that we all are concerned with how MS examiners expect to be served sparkling wine is incorrect. The assertion that all of our guests will be flabbergasted and offended if their server is not in possession of two serviettes for sparkling wine service is absurd.

“With all due respect, you’re missing the entire point of this post. This is a primer on proper Champagne service, much of which has to do with safety. It’s NOT about guest expectations of proper service because, after all, our service be it good or bad is not their problem. It’s ours.”

Nothing is more distasteful than a server suddenly whipping a hidden serviette out of a pocket to wipe the top of the bottle they’re about to serve you"? In 20+ years in restaurants and wine, I have experienced many more distasteful things.

“That may be true but I have to repeat again that nothing is more distasteful that a server pulling a serviette out of their pocket and then using it to wipe the lip of a bottle of wine they’re about to pour in MY glass.” I am repelled at the very thought.”

This response is not meant to attack every MS, or everyone seeking the title. Here in Chicago we are blessed with many people in both categories who are professional and incredibly knowledgeable, and who also don't take themselves or their careers in wine so seriously as to automatically insult anyone whose service doesn't meet Court exam standards. They generally don't call a server who happens to touch the bowl of their glass a moron.

“Understand your point but once again this post is about the basics of good Champagne service and practically all of them hold true for any other entity teaching wine service. As for my comment on handling wine glasses by the bowl, it was a bit over the top but spot on in terms of truly bad service. Leaving your fingerprints all over someone’s glass is bad form.”

One of the sad facts in our field is that many people never experience wine in all of its glory solely because they can't stomach dealing with sommeliers who look down their noses at the less educated. I continue to hold out hope that institutions like the Court will someday place more of an emphasis on bringing hospitality, warmth and a welcoming spirit to wine service and education and stop making themselves feel better by making others feel worse.

"Good points on attitude but I have to tell you that as Education Chair and Education Director for the Master Sommeliers in the U.S. for nine years, we do NOT put up with attitude from candidates. If you cop attitude to us or other students in one of our classes or exams you will NOT do well and you will definitely hear about it after the fact in terms of feedback. We are all about great service and taking care of the guest because that’s what we do. And knowing how to properly and safely open a bottle of sparkling wine is part of it.

Sam, thanks again for reading and I appreciate your comments.”

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Christine
3/24/2014 03:05:42 pm

Hi Tim,

Thank you for this insightful article!

I am taking my certified exam in May and have a question: am I allowed to place the bottle on the table (on the underliner of course) while I cut the capsule? I have watched the video on the Guild of Sommelier site and Bobby Stuckey does everything in the air. David Glancy also has a video demonstrating champagne service and he sets the bottle down while cutting the capsule. Are both methods acceptable for the exam?

Unfortunately, my hands are the size of a 12 year old, so everything in the air is slightly more challenging.

I would appreciate any feedback!
Christine

Reply
Tim Gaiser
3/25/2014 02:26:34 am

Hi Christine, thanks for reading. Yes, you are allowed to open the bottle by initially placing it on the table with the caveat that it is placed on an under liner and NOT in the way of people at the table. Also remember that in David's video he places the bottle on the table on a B&B plate initially to cut the capsule and loosen the cage but ultimately picks up the bottle to open it. One other option is to open the bottle in a bucket if one is available. Best of luck and hope this helps.

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Crystal
9/26/2015 07:29:48 am

Hi Tim!

Thank you for this post! I am going to taking my Certified exam very soon and have been practicing and practicing Champagne service. I am finding that some corks are much easier than others to get out .. In fact I've had a couple that I seriously cannot get out unless I abandon the proper technique and just man-handle it (ha!).. If I come across one of these corks during an exam (or in a service situation), what is the best way to handle it? I'm thinking if I acknowledge that the cork is a little stiff, and then excuse myself to open the bottle in the back (in order to not make a 'spectacle' so to speak).

I'm sure there is a proper way to handle this type of situation and was hoping you could shed some light for me!

Many thanks!

Reply
Tim Gaiser
9/29/2015 07:21:25 am

Hi Crystal, thanks for reading. Great question! In regards to the actual physical mechanics of Champagne service, the emphasis is always on safety. That means having a serviette over the top of the bottle and a firm grip over the serviette, cage, and cork when opening. Some corks are easier than others and I wouldn’t put too much attention on that because it’s something you can’t predict. Focus on opening the bottle safely according to MS service standards and if you do get a bottle with a difficult cork you can always give the MS who is acting as the maitre ‘d a heads up that you’re having trouble. He or she then can determine best action to take. To your point, if you were in service you would excuse yourself from the table and open the bottle safely away from the table. But that’s really not an option during the exam. Above all, avoid getting flustered and keep your hand firmly on top of the bottle at all times until the cork is out. Best of luck and let me know if you have any further questions.

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Ness
3/15/2017 05:14:26 am

I really love this article, thank you for your time in writing it! It is exactly as you introduced it - all of the essentials in one place, and all so incredibly spot on with regards to how you communicate the rules and describe the scenarios. I really appreciate the humour as well. Fantastic.

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Tim Gaiser
3/15/2017 04:12:27 pm

Hi Ness, thanks for reading and your kind comments--much appreciated. I'm in the process of putting together a video training on service for the Napa Valley Wine Academy. Stay tuned...

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Alex
11/17/2018 11:27:19 am

Thank you for writing this article. I am taking my certified exam in 10 days and the jacket I use does not have real pockets, is it acceptable to put the foil, cage in the pockets of ones pants? I know this might seem specific but I want to make sure. On the CMS Service Standards they mention Sommelier pocket, however do not mention which one...

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Tim Gaiser
11/17/2018 11:33:57 am

Hi Alex, thanks for reading. Per your question, yes, as in slacks pockets. The capsule, cage, and corkscrew all go in your pocket. If you're right-handed, use your right pocket, and vice-versa if left handed. Much easier access. Best of luck with your exam. By all means take a look at the post I wrote last year on preparing for the Certified Exam:

http://www.timgaiser.com/blog/advice-to-students-taking-the-certified-sommelier-examination

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Andrew
11/30/2018 08:40:55 am

I agree on some of the comments here. I think this is the elaborate, complete, no detail left out champagne service but it's not always appropriate nor even welcomed. In my experience of many, many years, most people drinking champagne aren't that refined to expect or even like that kind of service. And that leads me to this part of the service, the opening: "Once you feeling the cork coming out, gently but firmly move it to the side and allow the excess CO2 to escape the bottle in a gentle, almost silent hiss. Above all, try to remove the cork as quietly as possible. It goes without say that this takes a lot of practice." This is complete and utter bullshit and I'm tired of seeing this preached by the CMS. Champagne is CELEBRATORY. Why this insane insistence on silent opening of something that people LOVE to hear...the popping of a champagne cork? Invariably you hear oohs and ahhs from other tables and it even leads to those parties saying "oh my gosh, what are they having over there? Get us some of it too!". I'm not advocating a showy huge pop with the cork flying and champagne foaming over the bottle. No, obviously not that. But a nice satisfying pop and hiss, oh yes, absolutely. So please stop this bizarre killjoy it should be silent insanity. NO IT SHOULD NOT BE. And if you are offended by the sound from your own bottle, or a neighboring table's bottle? Then you have far bigger problems than that in your life and you shouldn't be drinking champagne. I'd recommend going straight for the harder stuff.

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Tim Gaiser
12/3/2018 05:42:53 pm

Hi Andrew, thanks for reading. Your point is well-taken. Completely agree that Champagne is all about celebration. However, context also comes into play. In our exams and classes we teach servers to open a bottle of bubbly as quietly as possible with safety in mind. The average bottle of classic method sparkling wine—including Champagne—is under 120 pounds per square inch pressure. A slip up during opening can potentially cause serious injury. A loud pop of the cork is also not universally appreciated and even downright starting to some. I’ve experienced a server losing a Champagne cork behind my head more than once—and it far from pleasant. So I’m all for popping the cork in celebration—just outside of a service scenario. Cheers!

Reply
Robert Gomez link
6/18/2019 10:40:02 am

Really enjoyed this! Love the sense of humor!

Reply



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