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Tim Gaiser, Master Sommelier

Remembering Michael Broadbent

3/20/2020

11 Comments

 
Picture
Photo by Carol Sachs
I was saddened to hear of the recent passing of Michael Broadbent at the age of 92. He was a true icon of the global industry, and his contributions to wine over the last 60-plus years cannot be measured.

Broadbent passed the Master of Wine examination in 1960 in London. He moved to Christie’s auction house in 1966 and launched their first fine wine auctions. He remained with Christie’s until 1992 and was a senior consultant with them until 2009. During his time at Christie’s, no one tasted more fine and rare wine, or wrote so eloquently about it than Broadbent. His books about tasting and rare wine have long been industry benchmarks. I can’t recall the number of times when a need for information or a tasting note for an older vintage of Madeira or Port would have me reaching for Vintage Wine or The New Great Vintage Wine Book.

Michael touched the lives of countless in the industry. No doubt many have stories about him and I look forward to reading them in the days and weeks to come. I had one unforgettable encounter with Mr. Broadbent. It went something like this.

In the fall of 2002, I was invited by good friend Joe Bilman to be part of a dinner honoring Broadbent and his son Bartholomew. Bilman owns Subterraneum, a wine storage facility in Oakland. I’d worked with Joe in the restaurant business in San Francisco previously and had been one of his first customers, storing my cellar with him early on. In time, many collectors in the Bay Area did likewise and Subterraneum flourished.

At this particular time, Michael Broadbent had just released his book, Vintage Wine, and was doing a tour of sorts through the U.S. Joe knew Bartholomew and was able to convince him to have Michael do a book signing at Subterraneum followed by a catered dinner for the Broadbents and a small group of collectors who were wine storage clients. I should also note that I knew Bartholomew. In my previous role as one of the buyers at Virtual Vineyards/the original wine.com, I got to know Bartholomew well and bought copious quantities of Port, Madeira, and Portuguese table wines from him.

Joe extended an invitation to the dinner with the caveat that I had to contribute a bottle worthy of the occasion; no easy task given the cellars of the other guests. In a pinch, I called Brent Wiest of Cellars International. Brent generously offered two half bottles of the 1983 JJ Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Eiswein for a player to be named later. The bottles would be my contribution to the meal.

Meeting Michael Broadbent that afternoon was a moment. He couldn’t have been more gracious. He was appreciative of the fact that I owned all his books and had already purchased the new book, which he quickly signed for me. For the moment all was well. It couldn’t have better. And then in an instant, things changed.

While I was chatting with Michael, one of the collectors who would be joining for dinner ambled up and placed a bottle in my hands. He said something like, “Joe said you’d take care of this for me,” and then wandered off. Broadbent looked down at the bottle and exclaimed, “Oh, the 1876 Gruaud-Larose! How marvelous!” My head snapped down and sure enough, there in my hands was a bottle of 1876 Chateau Gruaud-Larose with the label in remarkably good shape. Broadbent immediately started talking about the 1876 vintage on the left bank in detail.
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During an appropriate lull in the conversation, I excused myself and went to find Joe. I showed him the bottle and he said to go ahead and decant it. Mind you, the bottle had just been taken directly out of a storage locker and could not be stood upright lest the sediment be disturbed and the wine immediately rendered undrinkable. I then asked Joe what kind of equipment he had on site. A Screwpull? Ah-so? Decanting cradle or basket? He answered negative to all the above. But he did have a decanter and a candle. The only thing I had was a $10 waiter’s friend corkscrew with a black plastic handle. If not familiar, a waiter’s friend is the kind of corkscrew used by untold thousands of servers, bartenders, and sommeliers, the world over. It is the easiest to use, most effective corkscrew there is. That said, it is the very LAST corkscrew on planet earth one would use to open a bottle over a century old. 
Picture
Photo by Joe Bilman
​I scoured the kitchen looking for anything that would help stabilize the bottle horizontally at the proper angle so I could gently remove the cork and then decant the wine without disturbing the sediment or creating an international incident. Absolutely nothing turned up. In the end, I grabbed a pile of folded cloth napkins from the catering company and found a quiet place off to the side and out of sight. I then fashioned a nest of sorts for the bottle and carefully placed it snugly like a newborn. Mind you, Michael had followed me and was watching with great curiosity--and probably wondering what kind of maroon would use a pile of napkins to secure such an old bottle for decanting. I didn’t have time to worry about appearances.

As I carefully positioned bottle, Michael told me that he had tasted the 1876 several times previously. Then, with his photographic memory, he began to tell me about each time he had tasted the wine; the place, the occasion, and how each bottle had showed. I, on the other hand, was trying to perform micro-surgery with a can opener. I lit the candle and set it out of the way. I then took the entire lead capsule off the neck of the bottle so I could see exactly what was happening with the cork when I started to remove it. Next, I wiped the top of the bottle clean making sure it was free of any mold. Taking a deep breath, I inserted the auger of the corkscrew into the top of the cork. I slowly twisted/inserted the auger of the corkscrew and then began the delicate task of removing the cork. All the while Michael continued with his detailed account of each of the bottles of the 1876. Truth be told, I tuned him out and was completely focused on the cork as it started to come out in minuscule increments. After an eternity the cork was completely out and miraculously in one piece. To be honest, I got lucky as the bottle must have been recorked at the chateau at some point during the 1950’s or ‘60’s.

​From there it was all routine. I removed the cork from the auger of the corkscrew and put it aside on one of the napkins. I wiped out the inside of the neck and the top of the bottle thoroughly. Then I slowly and gently decanted the wine into the decanter, viewing the candle through the shoulder of the bottle to be mindful of any sediment (surprisingly, in the end there was very little sediment at all). I placed the bottle and decanter down and finally looked up. Broadbent was smiling. He put his hand on my shoulder and said, “young man, that’s one of the best jobs of decanting I have ever seen.” I simply nodded and mumbled my thanks, somehow resisting the urge to come completely unglued. I then found the bottle’s owner and handed him the bottle and decanter.

The dinner, a multi-course affair, was a great success. James Grandison, a friend of Joe’s, did the cooking and it was superb. I was drafted to do all the wine service and was more than happy to oblige. The lineup of wines from the various collectors’ cellars was the stuff of legend: a magnum of 1982 Krug vintage to start, 1947 Chateau Haut-Brion Blanc, the infamous bottle of 1876 Chateau Gruaud-Larose, 1996 Chateau Palmer, 1961 Chateau Cheval Blanc, 1978 Henri Jayer Vosne Romanée Les Brulées, the 1983 JJ Prüm Eiswein, and a bottle of 1900 d’Oliveiras Moscatel to finish the evening off.

Throughout the meal, Michael was asked to provide commentary about each of the wines served and he did so brilliantly and graciously. Toward the end of the meal I served the Prüm Eiswein. After pouring, Broadbent took a sip, looked up at me, and said, “perfection.” And it was.

The following year Michael wrote about the dinner in his column in the May 2003 issue of Decanter. He described the evening and the wines in detail. Here are his thoughts on the two wines of note:

“The first of the reds was Gruaud-Larose of a scarcely ever seen pre-phylloxera vintage, 1876. It had been recorked at the chateau and almost certainly emanated from Cordier’s sale at Christie’s in 1976. Palish, with orange-tinged maturity; its fragrance was discernible despite the initial whiff of banana skins and final relapse; tart and creaking yet remarkably good for its age and vintage. One has to make allowances.”

“Happily, along came a JJ Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Eiswein of a favourite Mosel vintage of mine, 1983. Orange amber-gold; a scent of apricots and refreshing whiff of tangerine; sweet of course, caramelly, raisiny, chocolatey. What Parker might call ‘decadent’ and what I shall merely regard as unashamedly appealing. Perhaps we mean the same thing.”

Michael closed the column with a wonderful remark:

“So this is how half a dozen collectors show and share their wines – with friends, and generous to a fault.”
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I think back to that night at Subterraneum, the dinner, and the brief time I was able to share with Michael. It is truly one of the highlights of my career—something I treasure. So Michael, here’s to you. Thank you for everything you did for our industry. It is beyond measure. You will be greatly missed. Cheers and Godspeed! 
Picture
Photo by Joe Bilman
11 Comments
Bartholomew Broadbent link
3/20/2020 06:49:50 pm

I love this. I was literally laughing out loud as it got to "Truth be told, I tuned him out and was completely focused on the cork as it started to come out in minuscule increments".

But I have my own very funny story about that evening and the next day. One of the 10 diners was Jerry Brown, twice Governor of California, as the time Mayor of Oakland, before becoming Governor two more times. Oakland was probably left of San Francisco, perhaps the most liberal place in the country and we thoroughly enjoyed Jerry Brown's views. By the way, at this time, Gavin Newsom was running for Mayor of San Francisco and was the first politician to publicly support gay marriage. It was a huge deal but Gavin's campaign manager was also at our dinner and explained that, though extremely controversial at the time, one day Gavin would run for President and by then he would be seen as being on the correct side of history. So, it was, we enjoyed the dinner and flew the next day to Greenville, South Carolina. I had not explained to my father the political difference between Greenville, SC and Oakland, CA. Bear in mind, this was just before the November General Election when George Bush was running for re-election. We got to Greenville and had a rather large wine dinner that night. My father, to an audience of maybe a hundred guests, started talking about the wonderful Mayor of Oakland, his great political beliefs and so on, he went on and on. It was one of those faux pas that my father was so prone to making. After eloquently talking about how great Jerry Brown was, there was a very uncomfortable feeling in the audience with exception of one table, it turns out it was a table of restaurant employees, who gave him a standing ovation! In retrospect, it is hilarious, at the time, it made me squirm.

Reply
Tim Gaiser
3/21/2020 08:23:29 am

Bartholomew, thanks for reading and your kind comments. I'll respond offline with more detail. Otherwise, in the original draft for this post I did include a bit about Jerry Brown and his girlfriend arriving fashionably late—about an hour into dinner. I chose to leave it out because the post is about you and your Dad, and I thought mention of Brown would be distracting. But thanks again for reading and my condolences to you and family.

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Bartholomew Broadbent link
3/21/2020 08:36:33 am

Thanks! I was so happy to read your blog because, without going back to look up my notes, I had forgotten many of the details, especially which wines we’d had. It was a very memorable night for me for numerous other reasons.

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Peter Stevens
3/21/2020 11:13:19 am

Tim, and now Bartholomew, thank you for those wonderful recollections of Mr Broadbent. I trust that I will not appear disrepectful when I say in honor of the gentleman and his rating system that each of your stories rate as 5 Stars for me. Thank you.

Best regards,
Peter Stevens

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Bartholomew Broadbent link
3/21/2020 11:21:43 am

That is the perfect compliment! Thank you

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Tim Gaiser
3/21/2020 03:08:02 pm

Peter, thanks for reading and also for your kind comments--much appreciated.

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Tom Elliot
3/21/2020 12:53:12 pm

Nicely recalled and related, Tim. Googling around for that 2003 Decanter issue for Broadbent's column (which I can't find) I came across this interesting, if not amusing, juxtaposition of Broadbent and Parker reviews of the the same wines. 3 excerpts...

1997 Chateau Figeac Robert Parker (Wine Advocate # 128 Apr 2000): “This wine, which was light but charming prior to bottling, appears to have lost what little flesh and allure it once possessed. Light ruby-colored, with insignificant body, a cedary, washed-out, vegetal nose, and short finish, it is a thin, disappointing St.-Emilion. Drink it over the next 3-4 years.” Anticipated maturity: 2004. Last tasted 04/00. 76 Points.

1997 Chateau Figeac Michael Broadbent (Michael Broadbent’s Vintage Wine):“Fragrant, light style, delicious, forward.” Last tasted November 2001. ****

1998 Chateau Grand Mayne Robert Parker (Wine Advocate # 134 Apr 2001): “The 1998 has continued to gain weight, richness, and volume. Even better from bottle than it was from barrel, this may be the most concentrated and powerful Grand Mayne yet produced. A saturated purple color is accompanied by a phenomenal nose of licorice, smoke, graphite, and cassis aromas (reminiscent of dry vintage port). This huge, massive effort is low in acidity, highly extracted, with an unctuous texture, gobs of glycerin, and a multidimensional, chewy, long finish. A dazzling wine, it is undoubtedly a sleeper of the vintage. ”Anticipated maturity: Now-2020. Last tasted 4/01. 93 Points.

1998 Chateau Grand Mayne Michael Broadbent (Michael Broadbent’s Vintage Wine): “Strange, malty nose; rich yet coarse texture, bitter tannins. Needs time.” Last tasted April 1999. (**)

2000 Hermitage ‘La Chapelle’; Paul Jaboulet Robert Parker (Wine Advocate # 147 Jun 2003): “The dark ruby-colored 2000 Hermitage La Chapelle possesses light to medium body, high acidity, sweet cherry and black currant fruit, but a leanness and tartness that are surprising in a wine of this fame and stature. The finish is austere and hollow.” Anticipated maturity: Now-2012. Last tasted, 6/03. 86 Points.

2000 Hermitage ‘La Chapelle’; Paul Jaboulet Michael Broadbent (Michael Broadbent’s Pocket Vintage Wine Companion): “Medium-deep, open rim, good fruit, sweet, rich, rounded, blackberry-like fruit.” Last tasted May 2006. ****

One can view a lot more of the same here, if so inclined: https://www.robersonwine.com/system/downloads/tastings/other/broadbent-vs-parker-their-views.pdf

Reply
Tim Gaiser
3/21/2020 03:10:36 pm

Hi Tom, good to hear from you. Good point--it's like universes colliding. One side bent on sensationalism the other on presenting the most accurate snapshot of a wine in a given moment possible. I have a PDF of the May 2003 column via Joe Bilman. Drop me an e-mail and I'll send. Otherwise, hope you are safe and well in this crazy time.

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Tom Elliot
3/21/2020 03:30:32 pm

Will do, and thanks. Scouring used book shops, I collected all the MB books I could find in the 70s and 80s. They proved to be invaluable to me. Those and a handful of others helped launch my career.

John Guerrini
4/12/2020 10:25:38 am

"Then, with his photographic memory, he began to tell me about each time he had tasted the wine; the place, the occasion, and how each bottle had showed. I, on the other hand, was trying to perform micro-surgery with a can opener."

Outstanding, Mr. Gaiser! You write stunningly well, and as I read this, I felt I had a front row seat to these events of so long ago. What a talented friend you had, and how sad for the wine world to have lost him. Thank you for sharing this story.

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Tim Gaiser
4/13/2020 08:55:20 am

John, thanks for reading and also for your kind comments--much appreciated. The Broadbent dinner is one of my favorite career memories ever. Cheers!

Reply



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